I have spent the day on the boat - just assessing things
the fuel tank is stainless steel - so that is great
the electrics looks a bloody mess
I also got a spare origo
does anyone down in thei area want to sort the electrics in return for an almost new single ring origo
here are the snaps
let me know if you see any potential probs - apart from the wiring - which is going to be bad
She has the original Centaur Livery - worth preserving I think
the engine looks great
but the electrics look like a liability
and they are not working at the moment
the bulkhead complete with local charts and a bird book - I like this man
handy box at the foot of the companionway
the slide front cupboards - rope and guff
good quality plastic glasses
nice mugs - although I prefer china
melamine plates
clock and barometer - stuck on stormy tonight
Origo two burner - wonderful
welcome aboard indeed
saggy headlining
forecabin - full of junk
the bog - jill will hate it
ugly valve
no such a bad valve
stb quarter berth - cushions and pads
port quarter berth - dinghy, more charts, plastic see through hatches
engine access
looking forward
winch
companionway - lot of cleaning to do
looking downstream
vent
mast step
chain marks bow - assuming the chain is pretty rusty then
half buried stanchion - source of squidginess
Roller reefing
mast winches
steern view
madder
bow view
stb keel
keel joint
rudder
spacings for outboard bracket
spacing for outboard bracket
inside pad
companionay step
step
one little step
stainless steel tank
danforth rudder and lots of dock fenders
any
Never mind about the ugliness of the valve – it looks corroded! If so replace immediately! I hear terrible stories about failed seacocks. I’m so obsessed with this issue that I have suitable bungs tied to each through-hull fitting on the boat…
Mmmmm, I suspect that this boat has so much potential that a strong bond will ultimately form posing issues of loyalty to Katie L. You may end up with 2 boats permanently!
She looks a really nice boat, Dylan. I very much doubt you’ll find much that isn’t immediately obvious. The only thing that would definitely concern me (in terms of what it could mean regarding substantial money) is the disappearing stanchion base. All the other issues look relatively straight forward to sort out at a reasonable cost. I certainly think you should keep the original livery; to my eyes it gives the boat a clean, up to date look.
Electrics – I’ve been looking around at old boats recently and your electrics look exactly like the majority I’ve seen. Ideally a complete re-wire is needed but that will take time you probably don’t have. The first necessity is to produce a wiring diagram of what’s there. You need to trace every wire and that means crawling into some very awkward spaces and waggling them to see what they’re attached to. Remember that every electrical component (switch, sensor, light, radio etc etc) will have a feed to it and you need to know where it’s switched and fused from. You’ll probably find that on a boat of Harmony’s age, some wires will be redundant supplying things that have long since been scrapped. Conversely, supplies to new stuff will have been piggy backed onto convenient (but not logical) supplies. Once you’ve traced everything you can rationalise it and tidy up the wiring with proper terminations, adequately sized wires and durable labelling so that you can identify it in the future. I found it useful to keep a copy of the new wiring diagram on board.
Seacocks – I’ve not had personal experience of any sinkings related to defective sea cocks but they do happen. The ones you’ve pictured are a nightmare. They are very likely plain brass and subject to de-zincification and also the wheel/gate type are undesirable because you can’t see at a glance if they are open or shut and they jam easily. GET RID ! and replace with DZR ball valves. Also, check the material of the elbows and other fittings and replace with DZR if doubtful. New hoses and stainless double jubilee clips would be a good idea.
Keels – They look unsightly but are not going to disappear any time soon – cast iron is pretty durable. No one can see them when you’re at sea (hopefully). I used to power wire brush mine, Kurust, Primocon and anti foul. Others will tell you to grit blast/needle gun etc. I saw a rather anal account of someone who took them off, grit blasted and coated them to some extreme level, encased them in fibre mat and rigidly glassed them back on! You pays your money etc.
It’s all a matter of time and money and what satisfies you.
Cheers,
Rick
Electrics – I’ve been looking around at old boats recently and your electrics look exactly like the majority I’ve seen. Ideally a complete re-wire is needed but that will take time you probably don’t have. The first necessity is to produce a wiring diagram of what’s there. You need to trace every wire and that means crawling into some very awkward spaces and waggling them to see what they’re attached to. Remember that every electrical component (switch, sensor, light, radio etc etc) will have a feed to it and you need to know where it’s switched and fused from. You’ll probably find that on a boat of Harmony’s age, some wires will be redundant supplying things that have long since been scrapped. Conversely, supplies to new stuff will have been piggy backed onto convenient (but not logical) supplies. Once you’ve traced everything you can rationalise it and tidy up the wiring with proper terminations, adequately sized wires and durable labelling so that you can identify it in the future. I found it useful to keep a copy of the new wiring diagram on board.
Seacocks – I’ve not had personal experience of any sinkings related to defective sea cocks but they do happen. The ones you’ve pictured are a nightmare. They are very likely plain brass and subject to de-zincification and also the wheel/gate type are undesirable because you can’t see at a glance if they are open or shut and they jam easily. GET RID ! and replace with DZR ball valves. Also, check the material of the elbows and other fittings and replace with DZR if doubtful. New hoses and stainless double jubilee clips would be a good idea.
Keels – They look unsightly but are not going to disappear any time soon – cast iron is pretty durable. No one can see them when you’re at sea (hopefully). I used to power wire brush mine, Kurust, Primocon and anti foul. Others will tell you to grit blast/needle gun etc. I saw a rather anal account of someone who took them off, grit blasted and coated them to some extreme level, encased them in fibre mat and rigidly glassed them back on! You pays your money etc.
It’s all a matter of time and money and what satisfies you.
Cheers,
Rick
Hi Dylan,
Boat looks good. I would though, replace those gate valves with 1/4 turn ball valves. Gate valves, in my opinion have no place on a boat.
Congratulations on finding a boat, look forward to seeing her on the water.
All the best & kind regards
Mick
Dylan,
Good
and good
Keels – I used a knotted wire brush on a (cheap) angle grinder to get rid of most of the rust. Then Kurust etc, didn’t work 100% but less to do each year. Tried to rake out existing sealant to a depth of 10mm but its difficult because, when the boat is resting on its keels, the seal is compressed by the weight. When the it’s afloat, the gap opens somewhat. Just about worth doing though and kept the water out.
Hi Dylan,
Nice pictures! Good to see that you have proper glasses and colourful mugs! Seriously though, she looks better than Tam Lin was when I got her. She has clearly been looked after for most of her life and has nice touches like amidships cleats, which Tam Lin doesn’t have.
The engine looks in good condition, it has been fitted with care as I can see a water strainer, which again I don’t have.
After using lots of different chemicals I found that the glue for the headlining in the fore cabin came off the walls with a washing up sponge (rough side) hot water and some Jiff. I didn’t bother replacing it as I still had a nice gel coat finish.
You may have found out where the wiring for the lights, including the masthead ones go but on Tam Lin they run under the port side bunks through some trunking into the heads. which isn’t original. Your pictures look much like my wiring and not all of it does anything!
It is always interesting looking through what has been left on a boat! On Tam Lin there were about half a dozen large knives. I don’t know if they were used to gut fish or for protection, anyway, I got rid of them. Other stuff was more useful. It doesn’t look like you will have to buy much!
Good Luck!
Bob
Hi Dylan,
Glad to see you found your next project. If you need a hand with the electrics I would be happy
to help. As you know I live at Hayling Island. For a reference Look at U tube Phoenix Rises 2.