The impeller may still be flexible, but as removed from the motor, 2 of 6 vanes were pointing the wrong way. -Might- not be a problem but likely to reduce efficiency a bit.In any case, now you -know- all is ticketty-boo at the bottom of the leg. The broken stud is a bit of a bummer, but not as bad as, say, a cooked donk. (I’m writing this as much for my benefit as yours – I have this exact same process in front of me on a 5hp Suzi…)cheersAJ in SAu
what can better than spending time in the garage with an old outboard – oh yes…. sailing, eating, drinking, filming, editing, lancing boils, clippping toenails…..
Hi fella.. This is going to peeve you …I bought my Yamaha 4hp for a couple of hundred quid laast year 23 years old..the impeller looked like new but it was still not getting enough cooling water..the intakes were blocked, after freeing them it ran ok with a cooling water stream.I still renewed the impeller (when I finaly got one) and she now runs as sweet as a nut..I know this is no help to you at all except to say that 2 strokes are easily fixed and do run well when looked after..
I am as of tmrw on the water despite the poor forcast of rain and wind.I have 3 more days holiday left so will take the weather as it comes. I will add the trip to my website next week..
Good luck with the motor J
Erm.. Fix the beast? I know it’ll be expensive, maybe not with Al, but at least you will have one working engine. If its any consolation, Cleone fell over mid june, and the shipwright (at the insurance co.s behest) has only just started the repairs. I’ll get no sailing this year, but the bright side is, a long refit and she’ll be looking shiny for next season. Think of the positives, or go mad and give up.
you are, of course completley right. The logical thing would be to just fix the beast.
the sentiment is spot on – the only fault with the assertion is the use of the word just.
the beast cannot be completely fixed – one way or another bits of the 50 year old installation will continue to find ever more ingenioous ways of falling appart.
there is the dynastart waiting in the wings to throw a £200 – maybe a £500 – wobbly. The electrical supplies to and from the beast are 50 years old – ditto oil filter and taps – throttle control…. where do you stop when you tell me to fix the beast – the beast can never be completely fixed.
if I could just fork out to fix the beast then the logical thing to do would be to buy and fit a new power unit and electrical system – say a twi cylinder Bukh
come to think of it – if I had the money to fix or replace the beast I would almost certainly not be using the slug and the beast but would have bought a better newer boat.
I bought the slug because it was at the time the best boat I could buy for the money.
I had £3,000 to spend on starting tis joourney – the slug was £2,000 and I thought I would use the remaining £1,000 to spend on sailing along the south coast.
Al is going to come and spend a day working on it fixing a few of the most obvious things that might stop it from running between now and Christmas.
so one way or another the boat will have a functioning power unit – probably als old seagull – by friday
However, if anyone has a better plan
Hi Dylan,Before attacking the broken stud with drills etc, procure a piece of 1″ x 1/8″ steel strip, drill a hole in one end the size of the stud, countersink it, and get someone to Mig weld the strip to the stud. The heat will often shock the corrosion that has grabbed the stud, and the length of strip gives you something to wiggle it with. Lash on the Plus Gas and go gently. If all else fails, drill it out, but it always makes a mess of the hole.It might just be Seagull time after all!I won’t mention sailing amongst the X Boats on the Solent today – wouldn’t be fair….Cheers for nowDoug
i had some studs stuck on my car took it round my mates which repair engines he usered a left handed drill to drill it out it the grabbed the nut and undid the nut. i’d go with the weld idea first drill and tap are a last thought
Hold on cowboy, that impeller is SHOT. Looks exactly like the example picture of a BAD impeller in the Cheap Outboards book. If the fins are hard enough to take a reverse set the rubber is tired. Honestly. Compare it with the new one and you’ll see and feel the difference.
More soaking, vice grips or maybe file a slot in the remainder of the screw might prevail. I like the weld idea above, assuming the screws are steel. Or you can heat the housing, avoiding the screw, with a small propane/butane torch and get the same effect, after putting the whole assembly in Jill’s favorite freezer for a few hours to shrink the screw.
Top off the show by using the Master Bath tub as the test tank………….
Have had my fill of dealing with outboards personally, but an observation from watching not one, but two extraordinarily gifted outboard mechanics who did various repairs for me during my “outboard years”.
They each were among the happiest working men I had ever encountered, much happier then — say — my automobile mechanic, or my plumber. They just exuded a Zen like confidence and sense of control in their dominion over all things outboard.
I noticed that each of them on disassembly treated *every* fastener as though frozen, soaking liberally with penetrating oils, and each kept a lighted propane torch close to hand and used heat regularly.
I know that judicious use of heat will free almost any frozen fastener. It’s my method of last resort. For these guys, it was business as usual. They’d try a screw *gently* with the screwdriver, and it if didn’t back right up, out came the torch. Every screw, every time.
Both also used anti-sieze on every bolt on reassembly.
I asked one of them about the torch business.
“Do you always keep that torch going?”
“Yep. Unless I’m taking apart a motor I did the last service on myself. You see, I put anti-sieze on every screw. You can tell the difference”.
So… don’t try to back that stud out with Vice-Grips until you’ve soaked it all day with the penetrating oil and heated it enough that it just backs right out with no resistance. If you don’t heat it up, even with the penetrating oil you’re likely to just break it off again deeper down to the point you won’t be able to grab the end and have to use an Easy-Out extractor. And don’t forget the anti-sieze.
gonna replace the impellor anyway
Al is going to take the Evinrude home and mess with it – leave me with a old 4hp seagull to use for the time being. If anyone can get it going sweetly Al can.
The good thing about outbnoards is that they come out of the boat and go to see the man with the zen – he can then put it on a bench and play with it at head height.
the inboard men have to livve out the back of a van and access is always a nightmare for them
Come on Dylan, less of the defeatist talk! The sailing pleasure increases with the effort invested or so I’m told.
The black smoke sounds fuel related and over rich, have you checked the float in the carb is not punctured and the valve and seat are clean and seal?
If the Evinrude was used in saltwater it may well have salt caked water passages.
Sorry, but I think outboards (well, old ones at least) are not your solution.
Hi Dylan, I had the same problem with an old Honda, the motor ran great but thought I would check the impellor which was cracked. Several of my bolts broke and I could not get a new impellor anyway! The outboard went to scrap! The impellor may have lasted you years or may have failed after 10 minutes, you cannot tell without actually seeing it.I think that after all these yaers the Slug has done well, probably sailed more miles since you have had it that in it’s whole life before.The water passages probably need cleaning out anyway, it will be great when it is done!
Dylan…as far as the broken bolt goes…soak it with penetrating oil again, maybe 3 or 4 times, take a file and put 2 flats on what is left, opposite each other. File them down until you can get a spanner or even vise grip (locking pliers) on them and see if you can get it out. You should heat the metal around the broken bolt with a propane torch to help it expand away from the boat. The metal is aluminium and has a large expansion factor so it will move quite a bit with not too much heat. once it is warmed up, try getting it to unscrew.
Oh…and make sure you wipe the excess oil completely away before putting the torch to it…been there and done that.
commentary is good need a bad language warning -:)dont do anymore lets the expert try to remove the stud steel bolts into aluminum dontlive together wellon motorcycle add hot corosive saly water and it is nightnare lots of heat plusgas soaking for a couple of days and use impact driver to shock bolt.. and lots of luck….
I got the broken stud out Saturday afternoon. cleaned and fitted pump parts. Put the bottom of the engine back on and started the engine up. Ran very bad at high revs. took the carb off and stripped it down .The float was cork so could be punctered, but it was fouling on a cork washer around the main jet housing and holding the float down allowing flooding. The main throttle valve was not closing due to a spring fault. Pair of long nose pliers fixed that. Cleaned all parts and reassembled them . Started the engine up and re-set mixture screw and tick over to allow slow running . Allowing for the engine to stall when completely closed. No stop button on this model. So i will return it to Dylan soon. I got to sail with him on the Slug. Doing circles on the Nene tide with out power. Fantastic. The evinrude has a reverse which i am sure Dylan will appreciate. Docking the Slug on a 6 knot tide needs exceptional skill. What a day.. Alan
it was a good day
the tide was only four knots I reckon
fast enough though
great to hear the evinrude is back running probably last another twenty years provided it us flushed out with clean water :-) which my yam 4 AC wasnt didn’t take my own advise now no tell tale took to bits solid salt all inside now cleaning out and putting back together looking forward to lining 3 things up with three pairs of hands !!!!!!
I have an old 6hp Johnson on the rack in my garage that needs a impeller. (lokks just like your Evinrude) Thought about replacing it this winter. After watching the troubles you have (your a much more patient man than myself)I my not. Sitting next to it is a 1966 water cooled 3.5 hp Chrysler long shaft. No troubles with that, even after it sat for 3 years with gas in the tank, it started on the second pull. Next to that is an ’85 Nissan 5hp extra long shaft that needs a tune up, and next to that is the ’09 Tohatsu 4hp 4 stroke long shaft that gives me the most trouble! On the very end of that motor rack are a pair of oars that have been neglected and left out in all kinds of bad weather, but always start and move the boat when needed!