The damage

Two nice blokes called Ian Ian went and had a look for me

could have been so much worse

bow ians

pontoon 1

bow damage

bow 3

This is about Dylan Winter's Blog, Sailing around Britain.

23 Responses to “The damage”

  1. 3 June, 2015 at 10:18 pmRon G says:

    At least the edge of the woodwork wasn’t too hard and angled, and it was a solid bit of boat. Has everything else on deck held firm while being wrenched about?

  2. 3 June, 2015 at 10:28 pmdylan winter says:

    the over the bow shot will never look the same

    might have to do something creative with the bow

    open to suggestions for covering up the damage with some sort of painted design

    D

  3. 3 June, 2015 at 11:02 pmMartin Roberts says:

    The way the white line finishes slightly before the bow might allow you to take a white line up the front of the bow.

  4. 3 June, 2015 at 11:12 pmdylan winter says:

    that might work

    I have emailed barry who helped me with Harmony

    see if he has any ideas

    I can never match the colour of the hull so it will have to be some sort of clever cover-up job

    D

  5. 4 June, 2015 at 1:10 amSpudmore says:

    A figurehead?

  6. 4 June, 2015 at 3:22 amDavid C says:

    How about installing a bow eye and a bow eye shield.
    Example here:
    http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1412_17/bow-eye-shield-c-22.cfm

  7. 4 June, 2015 at 4:12 amDavid Appleby says:

    Same idea as the bow eye shield but a protective metal strip for the whole bow? In stainless it would reflect the light on the water nicely. Such a strip is on a few boats here in the Baltic where bow to morning is the norm.

  8. 4 June, 2015 at 4:15 amDavid Appleby says:

    Same idea as the bow eye shield but a protective metal strip for the whole bow? In stainless it would reflect the light on the water nicely. Such a strip is on a few boats here in the Northern Baltic where bow to morning is the norm.

  9. 4 June, 2015 at 7:57 amdylan winter says:

    arf arf – what do you suggest?

  10. 4 June, 2015 at 7:57 amdylan winter says:

    that is not a bad idea

    keep it shiny – it would look functional

    D

  11. 4 June, 2015 at 2:20 pmDave Barker says:

    I reckon that’s the best idea – but it would be expensive. The S/S plate has to be curved to exactly match the shape of the stem and I don’t think the curvature will be constant all the way up. Nice if it can be done and it can be epoxied in place, no need for screws/bolts etc.
    The bow eye shield is probably much cheaper and more practical but be careful that the eye isn’t a danger to other craft or you might have a close encounter of the more expensive kind.

  12. 4 June, 2015 at 5:05 pmTed B. (Charging Rhino) says:

    Why not use some 4-inch boot-strip tape? A light sand and FG-filler to clean-up the scrapes and such to fair-in the hull true, some primer brushed or rolled-on to seal the hull’s fiberglass from the water, and apply the tape. It could be white, it could be a dark blue to match the anti-fouling bottom-paint, or some thing quixotic. It’s flexible so someone with a good-eye could follow the curve of the bow-up. They probably have decorative arrowheads and fluer-de-les available.

    Plus if the tape gets damaged, you can repair it. And you’ll notice if the bow rubs against something in the future.

  13. 4 June, 2015 at 5:58 pmdylan winter says:

    short term I will just put some dark blue tape on

    have a good prink about it next winter

    I like the idea of a shiny strip of stainless – but as others have said – it would require some precise shaping – which is beyond my grade

    maybe this

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Adhesive-Mirrored-Plastic-Plotters-Millimeters/dp/B00FF479NM

  14. 4 June, 2015 at 6:06 pmNigel Simms says:

    Do not despair I had some damage to a Hirrondelle Cat and the cleaver guys at the yard made it as good as new I could,nt tell where it had been
    problem is the yard is at Millbrook Cornwall, but there will be other at other yards which are just as capable
    Have a good summer
    Nigel

  15. 5 June, 2015 at 7:18 amDavid Appleby says:

    I wonder if it would be possible to make a mold when the boat is out of the water. From the mold make a former and then get a machine shop or other appropreat provider to make the plate?

  16. 5 June, 2015 at 8:58 amdylan winter says:

    that sounds expensive and time consuming

    sail now…fettle later

    however, I am planning to bring Katie L home next winter so I should get some time to fix her up

    D

  17. 5 June, 2015 at 6:05 pmTed B. (Charging Rhino) says:

    Usually a shape like that is rolled from flat-stock stainless steel since it’s a fairly open-radius, or you have it brake-bent for a sharper-radius than the underlying hull. Threaded studs are welded/brazed to the back-side as through bolts, then it’s final polished. It’s similar to a piece of automotive moulding trim.

    The problem is you wind-up needing to drill holes in the stem, right on top of the major-hull seam — not the best idea. Plus, you then have potential leak issues and you can never get a perfect joint along the edges to the fiberglass since the fiberglass flexes slightly as the boat moves in a seaway.

    Personally, I’d be worried about the mould-seam of the fiberglass hull. Your boat-buddy Roger Ball might know more about this joint. I don’t know if Minstrels were one or two-piece moulded.

  18. 7 June, 2015 at 7:11 amGlenn says:

    Lets face it mate, its ruinated.
    best bet is to list it on eBay as salvage only with a dirt cheap buy it now price!
    let me know the exact time it goes on, theres a good chap.

  19. 7 June, 2015 at 8:57 amdylan winter says:

    you are correct – I will let you know….. naaaa

    planning on keeping Katie L….. Ideal for east coast creek crawling….less perfect for scottish storm cowering and working my way around the outside of ireland…..

  20. 9 June, 2015 at 1:09 amTed B. (Charging Rhino) says:

    Many years ago I used to work in an auto-parts store. We used to sell thick rubber-trim rub-strips and linear bumpers to protect car-doors and fenders from dents and chips from other car-doors opening and hitting the painted surface. Some was just black rubber, and some was attached to a metallized-chrome backing with a strong adhesive-attached.

    Maybe something like that might be appropriate — if available — that was flexible to handle 2–3 inches of gentle-radiused stem, and up the bow-stem from the waterline or slightly below to the underside of the hull-joint. It would conceal any primer-painted surface repairs and it would afford some protection against further soft-impacts and rubbing.

  21. 9 June, 2015 at 10:05 pmdylan winter says:

    I am not going do anything to it until the winter

    T cut first I guess – but it is too deep for the centre damage

  22. 10 June, 2015 at 3:02 amDave says:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxzCZ-5lMxY

    this guy has a whole series of vids on repair… a bit scattered but does a great job explaining things.

  23. 14 June, 2015 at 1:26 pmPerry says:

    American site, but two videos show how to pattern cutwaters.

    http://www.cutwaters.com/

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